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the journal
occasional musings of my obsession with metal

​

Transformation...

5/24/2017

4 Comments

 
We all go through transformations many times in our lives. Some are easier to accept, others make us feel like our world will never be right side up again. You feel lost, alone, scared....hurt, rejected, devastated. The process of transforming makes you face yourself. Really look at who you are...who you really want to be. It is painful. It is hard work. It is life changing.

I struggled for months in a fog during a transformation. Trying to understand who I was and what I wanted to change. And the why. Facing my issues, struggling with roadblocks along the way.

But I did it. I came out of the gray mist and into the light. I believe in myself again. I like myself. I learned to love myself for the first time. 

Today I embrace my dreams. I am making them my life. I am LIVING. My "soul" purpose is to live a joyful life. To LOVE. It seems so simple...yet it is something I work on everyday to maintain and pursue.

I will transform again. Probably many more times. I am no longer scared at that idea but know I will face my fears head on. I know I am capable. I will be able to overcome whatever comes my way and SHINE.

                                                                >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
​
What does this have to do with jewelry? Well, EVERYTHING. Every project starts out as just parts, bits, metal and stones. The potential sits waiting to be unleashed. I TRANSFORM  these parts into something beautiful. A treasure for someone to wear and cherish. Metal gets cut, hammered, bent, torqued...even torched beyond recognition. But it is all done with the intent of transforming into something wonderful. 

Jewelry is personal. It has HUGE emotions attached to it, underlying meanings. It celebrates milestones. Symbolizes love. Is passed down through generations. Holds memories. It empowers. It expresses. A tiny adornment means so much more than the sum of its parts. I am humbled and grateful that I get to make these treasures that hold so much meaning for you.

​Some of you I get to meet in person, learn a little bit about you. Others I don't. Either way, know my heart and soul go into each piece. I am forever grateful that you chose me to create your treasures. Thank you from my whole heart.

Peace and love. Always.
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4 Comments

The Evolution of a Collection

5/26/2016

3 Comments

 
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The last four months I have been immersed in designing and developing a new collection of jewelry. The collection has grown to over 90 pieces and I'm not out of ideas yet! It's been a beautiful journey and I am really excited about the work.

Portrait painter extraordinaire, Chuck Close expressed once that young artists should:

​"...not to wait around for inspiration. Inspiration is for amateurs; the rest of us just show up and get to work. If you wait around for the clouds to part and a bolt of lightning to strike you in the brain, you are not going to make an awful lot of work. All the best ideas come out of the process; they come out of the work itself. "
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I've taken this to heart in how I approach my work. I always have ideas brewing and try to get them into reality as quickly as possible. Do they all work? No, of course not. But I LEARN something each time. This learning helps me build better designs, more skilled executions and work that I LOVE making.

This collection started out with tons of sketches but the majority of the pieces developed as the making process took place. I have taken my time to stay focused, centered and develop a cohesive collection. I hope you enjoy it as much as I have enjoyed making it! Go take a peek and let me know what you think!

​The Lichen Collection


Enjoy! 

​


​

Shop The Lichen Collection
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3 Comments

Teaching Beginning Jewelry Classes

2/26/2016

3 Comments

 
Super excited to announce that I will be teaching a Beginning Jewelry Series at New Approach School for Jewelers this summer. New Approach is an amazing professional jewelry school that has trained thousands of successful jewelers over the years. I am forever grateful for the knowledge and skills I was able to learn and refine during my time in the Graduate Bench Program. 
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The Beginning Jewelry Series will encompass 4 different jewelry workshops.
  •  4 day Basic Fabrication workshop over two consecutive weekends that covers the basic skills of fabrication to start creating your own designs. Really a great way to get started in jewelry and learn solid skills to take your beginning design ideas to the next level. 
  • 1 day exploration in Rings. Learn the basics of making simple fabricated rings. Learn to create texture and how to set simple tube set bezel stones.
  • 2 day workshop on Bracelets. Learn to make cuffs, bangles and simple link bracelets. Learn ways to shape and form brackets as well as creating textures.
  • 2 day intermediate workshop on Professional Bezel Making. Learn how to make bezels beyond the thin bezel wire push over style. Create thicker handmade bezels, learn how to set with a hammer and chisel and finishing techniques utilizing micro burnishers and gravers. This is perfect for the student looking to move beyond the thin bezel style and create more substantial looking bezels.
If anyone is interested in signing up, please contact New Approach School for Jewelers or visit their website for tuition and exact dates.
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3 Comments

Coming Soon! A New Collection Spring 2016

2/3/2016

4 Comments

 
Things are shaking up here in 2016. I've been busy sketching, planning, creating and preparing a new collection for spring called the Lichen Collection. I've been taking my time, enjoying the process letting me savor the journey. This has really helped me focus and create a cohesive collection that I can continue to expand and grow over time.

The new pieces began from making these tiny little forms I call Lichen. The are inspired by the multitude of varieties of lichen found everywhere from blacktop to mountain top. These painstakingly slow growers fascinate me. Their textures, range of colors and delightful forms inspire me to create pieces influenced by their tiny details and richly layered textures. ​
The sketchbook is overflowing with idea and pieces are coming to life. Launch date for the Lichen Collection is March 1st! Back to work! Can't wait to show y'all!
​
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4 Comments

Making the Leap...

5/3/2015

4 Comments

 
I have been Panicmama Jewelry for quite awhile now, since 2008.  I have spent many countless hours and days making it my brand.  But it really wasn't me.  It was a nickname that became me.  It was hard to explain and often ended up with confusion for the customer.

With the many changes that I have encountered over the past few years, I needed to make my brand me.  It needed to be associated with my name and what I do.  So here it is.  The new ME.  The change feels right.  It fits me.  It is me.

All traffic will be directed to reneefordmetals.com. I will continue to use Panicmama in connection to Renee Ford Metals until I no longer need to use it. Search engines will still connect you through "panicmama" searches. Excited to leap...finally.


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4 Comments

I want to engrave EVERYTHING.

11/10/2013

4 Comments

 
We were privileged to be taught by a master engraver for our engraving portion of the 12 week Graduate Bench Jeweler course at New Approach School for Jewelers.  Jason Marchifava was a delightful instructor and very inspiring to observe.  His career at his age is impressive and extraordinary.  It was an honor to learn the basic skill set of engraving from him.
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One of the first things we learned about engraving is having proper tools.  You don't need a thousand different engraver shapes.  You need two.  Yes, two.  An onglette and a flat graver.  They do need to be shaped for engraving.  The fine straight lines we use with stone setting do not apply here.  You need a very slightly rounded heel at the tip to successfully engrave.  Getting this angle correct, straight and even was the hardest part for me all week.  It's harder than it looks. Too steep and you slip.  Too shallow and you have chatter in your lines.  Not even and the graver doesn't make the line you expect.  And keeping it sharp.  Another dilemma.  Such a first world problem, but it drove me nuts.  I spent one morning on a "slip n slide" until I finally got my graver properly sharpened and angled. 
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We spent a good amount of time just practicing basic cuts.  These cuts then make up patterns.  These patterns then become a design.  It was satisfying to actually make a pattern.  It felt like you got your drivers license and were able to go drive for the first time by yourself.  While I accomplished the basic cuts, I still need lots of practice. Lots and lots of practice.  Then add a few more years of practice.  Luckily, I kinda love it.  Ok, ok, I actually am in love with it.  It's a skill I hope to utilize in my jewelry making and bring another element of texture.  And I do love me some texture on jewelry.  Seriously love texture. 

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These "seagull" cuts became....
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...these amazing little wheat patterns.

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We called these "Fava Flowers" in honor of Jason Machiafava, our instructor.
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Approximately 1.5mm square "orange blossom " flowers.
Next came flowers!!  These were really fun to make and really a nice "freeing" exercise from straight lines and little ticks.  I attempted to make teeny tiny ones.  Obviously, need some practice at those!  My main issue is being able to SEE the lines I am engraving. *Sigh.*  (Microscope just added to shopping cart.)

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"Fava Flowers" with leaves and practice "S cuts" above.

After flowers came flowers in grid patterns.  These were fun too and really eye catching.  The pattern grid can be any shape and you just make the flowers fit the space.  A nice skill to develop for those spaces that need something to "finish" off the engraving.

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So the week is rolling along and I feel I am getting the hang of things.  Even enjoying my self, putting flowers on all my test plates...and then came scrolls.  Scrolls are hard.  REALLY hard.  First is deciphering the "code" of a scroll.  Then to actually accomplish a scroll cut without "slipage."  Then figuring out how to shade the scroll.  It's complicated.  It's frustrating, but the result can be beautiful.  See >>>> http://jfava.com   Lordy.  I have a lot of practicing to do.

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Scroll beginnings.
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Scroll work with "slipage" lines.

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Example of the master engraver, Jason Machiafava, demo plate from class. Awesomeness. Beauty and perfection.

I ended the week by trying to do a leaf pattern on a silver ring.  It was quite the challenge as you constantly slip when you are trying to engrave on a curved surface.  I will continue to practice as soon as I get my engraving ball and microscope.  I want to spring for a Lecia microscope, but not sure it is in the cards. Oh the tools.  I am beginning to sort through the neglected tools I already own and see if someone else out there can use them. 

Our last three weeks are here!  I am getting excited to put my skills to work.  All of my super patient (and loyal!) clients that have been waiting for projects to get finished (or even started!) are the first priority to testing out the new skills!  Thank you for hanging in there dear readers, peers, friends, family and clients through out my adventure.

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My "best" scroll.
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Ring on bottom hand engraved, added to my growing stack.

4 Comments

Week 8- "Approaching" the end...

11/2/2013

1 Comment

 
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Much needed fun time at Franklin's Annual Pumpkin Fest!


We've turned the 8 week corner and are quickly approaching the end of the road.  It is amazing what we have learned. It's amazing to see the progress of everyone in the class.  It is magical.

There was a time in my life when I never thought I could pavé set, bead set, hand build a basket setting...Well, I can.  I truly appreciate the teaching method that Blaine uses at New Approach School for Jewelers.  I never found a book, video or school out there that can teach like Blaine is able to do in this program.  You will learn, improve, refine, advance, push, excel in an extremely short amount of time.  It's been an amazing experience and I am anxious to put my skills to work. 





Week 8

We tackled finishing up baguette setting and began setting an emerald cut shape.  Setting a baguette takes a lot of time and patience.  Then comes the emerald cut...Persnickety little bugger.  It takes several little adjustments.  Repeated.  And then repeated.  I love the look of a well cut emerald cut gem and have learned that tapered baguettes are still used in contemporary jewelry these days.  

We learned a few different ways to finish off the prongs for the emerald cut.  The trapezoid end, the claw prong and the split claw prong.  All had a different appeal.  I personally like the trapezoid in the style of ring we were using.  A ring style with rounds on the side, I might use the split prong or the single claw prong.  They add a certain elegance.





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Prong styles for Emerald Cuts: Top left (clockwise) small trapezoid, larger trapezoid, claw prong (single) and split claw prong.
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Emerald cut setting with baguette sides.


We spent the remainder of the week on a box clasp repair/rebuild and bracelet hinge.  While it felt frustrating to spend so much time on these two elements, it was very valuable teaching.  Being able to look at something and break it down critically to it's basic structure is extremely important in repairs and fabrication.  We are becoming "littleland" engineers. 


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The hinge and box clasp repair/reconstruction lessons complete.

With a little free time in the clasp/hinge instruction, I finally finished my bead set-hand fabricated basket head earring side project.  I had fun doing these and hope to have them for sale in my Etsy shop for the holidays!

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New Earrings!! Blue Topaz bead set at top with Peridot rounds in hand fabricated basket settings.
1 Comment

Potato, Poh-Tah-toe.

10/23/2013

4 Comments

 
"So it's pavé setting."
"No, it's thread setting."
"Then when you add migrain its pavé setting."
"No, it's thread setting."
"Everyone would call that pavé setting."
"But it's thread setting."
"But it is bead setting, right?"
"Yes. But specifically, it's thread setting, a type of bead setting."
"Regular people don't call it thread setting. They call it pavé setting."
"But it is called thread setting."
*Sigh*
"So what should I call it?"
"Thread setting."
"But no one will know what that means.  I wanna call it pavé setting."
"Potato-Poh-Tah-Toe. But you should call it what it is: Thread setting."
"Ok, fine. I'll call it thread setting."

Anyone that knows me, knows I like my information correct. I want to get my facts straight and clear.  I don't particularly take to blended foggy information or information that contradicts what I have been previously informed about (instert: doesn't like to be wrong, but will grudgingly admit when I am.)  Hence the conversation that took place this week. 

Week 7- Open Channel Setting

We began our week with open channel setting.  Stones all hanging out suspended between two sides.  Carefully, we aligned the stones and created their little seats and hammered them into place.  Simple but careful layout and attention to levels is needed to be successful.  The clean lines and sleek modern look of this setting has always been appealing to me.
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The graver is an indispensable tool.  All of them.  Flat, round, onglette.  And the many more I have yet to pick up.  I love them.  I am not sure how I made jewelry without them.  The details are just lost without them.  I love them.  Did I say that already??






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Graver control is crucial in getting this to work.  You need to know the proper type of gravers to use as well as how far to cut the metal with the gravers.  And you must keep them sharp.  Blaine uses a diamond coated sharpening plate at the bench to keep the graver sharp and adjusted for specific techniques.  It's quick and easy to use and less fiddling and musing happens than using a sharpening stone.




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One slip up and you could blow your whole piece.  which comes back to the "patience" part of the process.  I enjoyed the process as much as the end result.  I am hopeful to get in more practice soon, as to be any good at pavé, I am going to need lots of practice.  Like hours and hours.  Maybe days and weeks.  Who am I kidding?  Probably years and years.  Who doesn't want to aspire to be half as good as Alexander Sidorov. 

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Thread Setting

The conversation above was to clarify what this type of setting is called.  I personally have always called most all types of bead setting, pavé.  I know there are differences: plate set, bead set, pavé set but I had never heard the term "thread set."  So.  It's bead setting in a row that has shared beads for setting. Don't call it pavé.  Cause it's not.  We all clear on that?  Good. 

The practice plates are set up for us to quickly learn and concentrate on the task of learning the setting versus messing with certain elements a design may have.  They are great tools to get the basics down.  I kinda love my little plates.  I'm a bit attached to them.



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Pavé Setting

I was so excited the night before pavé setting, that I couldn't sleep.  Seriously.  I never thought that I would have the skill level to even attempt this type of setting.  It is crazy precise and detailed.  But I do.  And I did.  It was so much frigging fun!!  I now want to pavé EVERYTHING.   It is very time consuming and requires patience but it really can add a look that no other type of setting can.  It means "to pave" as in pave it with diamonds.  Um, YES!  I will be paving anything and everything.  Well most anything...maybe not this.  But ya' never know!

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After all the beads were ready and all my stone seats were carved out, the process of setting stones began.  You follow a criss-cross or zig-zag pattern to set the stones by bringing the metal over a stones edge and using a beading tool to make a round half sphere to give the piece a finished appearance.  For my first attempt, I am pleased.  I want to repeat this same layout a few more times to work out issues and challenges. 

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Oh yeah.  And we set this.  And then retipped it.  Sweet.


We completed the 7th week. Wow. Time is flying by.  I am excited about the next few weeks: more advanced stone setting, more hand fabrication, ENGRAVING!!!!! and a few other fabulous things to keep us on our toes.  Can you tell I am excited about engraving??  Beyond belief excited.  Weeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
4 Comments

Sometimes I paint...

10/13/2013

6 Comments

 
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Yes it's true.  I like to paint too.  During one of my "Mommy needs quiet time" moments, I decided on a pet portrait of one of the most adorable dogs, Taco. (Instagram: frenchtac0 follow him.  You won't be sorry.) He's a French Bulldog and so friggin' cute.  It was nice to let my mind wander from jewelry...

Week 6

But back to the jewelry...We pretty much worked on stone setting all week.  It was a bit of a "meh" kinda feeling for me after the "Big Project" ring last week.  I wanted another.  Instead we set.  And set.  And set.  Much of it was fancy shapes: princess cuts, marquise cuts. The exercise of setting the stones was very informative and I learned a ton about effectively avoiding breaking the fine tips of pointed stones.  The "pocket" or "parking garage" are key in making a space for the tips.  I've set a few princess cuts and pear shapes over the years but really got a clear picture of how it is actual done. 
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Making a parking garage for the point of a princess cut.

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Crabby McCrabby.



Marquise cuts were on the menu, much to my dismay. Marquise cut (aka: Football or eyeball) aren't really my favorite cut.  Actually I kinda think they are fugly.  Yup. Fugly.  The v-tip prongs with the four standard prong setting pretty much looked like a crab.  It made me a little crabby to be setting the marquise all day long. *Snort* Even with the lack of enthusiasm on my part, I finished them up and learned some very practical details.






The middle of the week a little milgraining practice was thrown in.  I love milgrain.  I want to milgrain everything.   It's kinda like "bedazzling" but on a micro scale.  It makes it all sparkly!! 

More setting: a semi bezel, teeny bezels, marquise bezel and oval basket head settings (to prep us for setting our "Big Project" ring.)  
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Milgraining. It is in the details.

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Bug eyed from setting.




With all of this stone setting going on, I began to get a little bug eyed from all of the micro vision.  Lots of breaks and giggles from my bench neighbor, Nick, were helpful in keeping me entertained.  


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Nick, the funniest awesome-ist bench neighbor a girl could ever want.

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Week 6 projects.





The week rounded out with another bench test.  We half shanked a ring, set and polished a ring and made a chain repair.  We had about 1 1/2 hrs to complete.  I think it went well for everyone and the tension was much less than our last test, er, timed exercise.

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Week 6 projects (minus our bench test pieces.)





After spending all day, every day at the bench during the week, I find it difficult to sit at the bench much on the weekends.  With the holidays around the corner, I have got to get some new product in my Etsy shop.  A moissanite rose gold wedding set and a two tone gold ruby ring were finished and are soon to be listed for sale!  All that stone setting came in handy!  These were a breeze and much cleaner than BB (Before Blaine.)
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New work!! Soon to be listed at http://panicmama.etsy.com
6 Comments

The "Big Project" Ring

10/7/2013

14 Comments

 
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Upper gallery beginnings.
Week 5

5.5 days.  49.5 hours.  2970 minutes.  178,200 seconds.  All spent on this ring.  Well, ok, maybe I went pee once or twice and maybe I ate a Chick-fil-a sandwich and had cupcakes (yes, plural, don't judge me) to celebrate Christina's B-day.  But realize, this is pretty much all we did this week. 

We began last Friday with the shaping of the plates for the three stone oval ring and the layout of the top gallery. Monday morning began the rest of the story...





The upper or top gallery was established first.  We cut out our layout pattern to stone size and left guides or arms to help us hold the piece.  The stone size is 8x6mm oval faceted stones.  I was using CZ's to establish sizes, while deciding which type of real stones I wanted to set into the finished piece.
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Pretty oval upper gallery.

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Brick for spacing galleries.





Little "bricks" were added to establish the spacing between the upper and lower galleries.  The bricks helped keep spacing between the galleries while we attached the wire prongs.





The top gallery was then soldered on.  Carefully we cut out the lower gallery to taper in from the upper gallery.  The lower gallery outer shapes we established and then clean up of the outer ovals to perfection.  It really was beginning to take shape. 
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Soldering bondage. 50 Shades of Jewelry.



Each step was explained with care and diligence to make sure we understood the exactness and care that is needed to make this come together.  The huge 3 screens are a huge help but can also drive you nuts!  I want to be able to see everything at 150 times magnification.  Obviously, my eyes can't do that.  Even with a loupe or microscope.  Using a loupe has changed my jewelry making world, but a microscope is in my near future.  I just can't see myself wanting to create without one. 
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Upper and lower galleries cut out and shaped.

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Large three screens 150 times magnification is awesome. But drives you crazy too.

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Under side of prongs being attached to lower galleries.









Next came careful filing of grooves for prongs to be applied.  This part kinda bummed me out.  My perfect little ovals now were all indented with slots for prongs.   Once the prongs were attached, I was less annoyed with them, but I was a little pissed they invaded my ovals.  Little buggers.





Prongs in place, a little magic clean up and we were ready to start the shank.  Well, ok.  Maybe the prongs didn't go that smoothly.  This point really was a critical step.  One wrong move and your ring goes to shit.  Prong angles and alignment are crucial to have the ring look proper and balanced.  Gaps, off angles, wonky attachment... all can pose problems with the end product.  I resoldered one prong three times and another twice.  Frustration could be felt in the air in the classroom.  It was thick as pea soup.  And honestly, who really likes pea soup?  Bleh.
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Prongs attached and in their proper place.

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Tapered shank.





Day 4 on the ring we created the shank for the ring.  The shank began as an ingot that was then was pulled into square wire.  The square piece of wire was grade rolled down into a taper.  Once the shank took shape and finger size was established, it was time to cut throats in the sides and attach the pieces together!! YAY!  The "Big Project" was finally coming together.





Careful alignment and angle adjustments are required for a well executed fit of heads and shank.  We learned way back in week two how to attach a shank and three stone head together.  I had lofty ideas of adding side bezels and all kinds of other foofy additions. But in the end, I just wanted to keep it simple.  I could get fancy pants with my next one. 
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Shank and head assembly.

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The "Big Project" Ring complete. Sorta.

String polishing (thrumming) and final polishing to get the ring all gleaming!  Anxiously awaiting the stone setting part, we were informed that we would not be setting at this point in time.  Huh?  That is like saying you can have cake but not the frosting!!  Not. Fair. Groan.

I never really have been a fan of prong settings. I now have a new appreciation for them.  Especially hand fabricated ones.  I find myself looking for new ways to incorporate prongs into my own designs.  I think this could be an interesting adventure, Mr. Prong.  You and I could become friends.  Let's see where this journey takes us...

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Side view of three stone oval ring with the gems that will be set. Eventually.


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    Renee Ford

    Metalsmithing maven and mind behind Renee Ford Metals.  I make the plain look interesting with fire, hammers & cool tools.


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All jewelry is handmade in Franklin, Tennessee, just south of Nashville.  I use recycled, responsibly sourced metals + gemstones.  All designs + images are property of
Renee Richards Ford and Renee Ford Metals 2018
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