The "Big Project" Ring

Upper gallery beginnings.

Week 5

5.5 days.  49.5 hours.  2970 minutes.  178,200 seconds.  All spent on this ring.  Well, ok, maybe I went pee once or twice and maybe I ate a Chick-fil-a sandwich and had cupcakes (yes, plural, don't judge me) to celebrate Christina's B-day.  But realize, this is pretty much all we did this week. 

We began last Friday with the shaping of the plates for the three stone oval ring and the layout of the top gallery. Monday morning began the rest of the story...

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The upper or top gallery was established first.  We cut out our layout pattern to stone size and left guides or arms to help us hold the piece.  The stone size is 8x6mm oval faceted stones.  I was using CZ's to establish sizes, while deciding which type of real stones I wanted to set into the finished piece.

Pretty oval upper gallery.

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Brick for spacing galleries.

Little "bricks" were added to establish the spacing between the upper and lower galleries.  The bricks helped keep spacing between the galleries while we attached the wire prongs.

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The top gallery was then soldered on.  Carefully we cut out the lower gallery to taper in from the upper gallery.  The lower gallery outer shapes we established and then clean up of the outer ovals to perfection.  It really was beginning to take shape. 

Soldering bondage. 50 Shades of Jewelry.

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Each step was explained with care and diligence to make sure we understood the exactness and care that is needed to make this come together.  The huge 3 screens are a huge help but can also drive you nuts!  I want to be able to see everything at 150 times magnification.  Obviously, my eyes can't do that.  Even with a loupe or microscope.  Using a loupe has changed my jewelry making world, but a microscope is in my near future.  I just can't see myself wanting to create without one. 

Upper and lower galleries cut out and shaped.

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Large three screens 150 times magnification is awesome. But drives you crazy too.

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Under side of prongs being attached to lower galleries.

Next came careful filing of grooves for prongs to be applied.  This part kinda bummed me out.  My perfect little ovals now were all indented with slots for prongs.   Once the prongs were attached, I was less annoyed with them, but I was a little pissed they invaded my ovals.  Little buggers.

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Prongs in place, a little magic clean up and we were ready to start the shank.  Well, ok.  Maybe the prongs didn't go that smoothly.  This point really was a critical step.  One wrong move and your ring goes to shit.  Prong angles and alignment are crucial to have the ring look proper and balanced.  Gaps, off angles, wonky attachment... all can pose problems with the end product.  I resoldered one prong three times and another twice.  Frustration could be felt in the air in the classroom.  It was thick as pea soup.  And honestly, who really likes pea soup?  Bleh.

Prongs attached and in their proper place.

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Tapered shank.

Day 4 on the ring we created the shank for the ring.  The shank began as an ingot that was then was pulled into square wire.  The square piece of wire was grade rolled down into a taper.  Once the shank took shape and finger size was established, it was time to cut throats in the sides and attach the pieces together!! YAY!  The "Big Project" was finally coming together.

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Careful alignment and angle adjustments are required for a well executed fit of heads and shank.  We learned way back in week two how to attach a shank and three stone head together.  I had lofty ideas of adding side bezels and all kinds of other foofy additions. But in the end, I just wanted to keep it simple.  I could get fancy pants with my next one. 

Shank and head assembly.

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The "Big Project" Ring complete. Sorta.

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String polishing (thrumming) and final polishing to get the ring all gleaming!  Anxiously awaiting the stone setting part, we were informed that we would not be setting at this point in time.  Huh?  That is like saying you can have cake but not the frosting!!  Not. Fair. Groan.

I never really have been a fan of prong settings. I now have a new appreciation for them.  Especially hand fabricated ones.  I find myself looking for new ways to incorporate prongs into my own designs.  I think this could be an interesting adventure, Mr. Prong.  You and I could become friends.  Let's see where this journey takes us...

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Side view of three stone oval ring with the gems that will be set. Eventually.

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